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Ignition


This ignition discussion occurred on the AMC list.

From: Glen Hoag
Date: Fri, 6 Aug 1999 08:25:34 -0500
Subject: Re: BID ignition Questions

At 8:17 AM -0400 8/6/99, GORDON P ANDERSON wrote:
>Gang:
>I need a schematic for a 77 six cyl. ignition.

It's pretty simple. I can give you the connections:

Ignition module:
Yel - +12 from ignition switch (hot in "start" and "run")
Also connected to ignition coil positive
Blu - distributor pickup coil
Wht - distributor pickup coil
Grn - ignition coil negative
Blk - ground (connected at alternator frame, probably for radio
interference suppression)

>any specs on the distributor pickup coil?

The 1977 DARS chart says to test the coil, you should disconnect the
4-wire connector from the ignition module, then connect the leads of
an ohmmeter to the sensor wire terminals (blue and white) in the
connector. Then, "Massage and press 2-wire connector". (This is the
connector between the harness and distributor.) If the resistance is
a solid 1.6-2.4 ohms, the sensor and harness are okay. If not,
disconnect the connector at the distributor and check the sensor
resistance again. If the sensor resistance is out of the above
range, replace the sensor, otherwise (repair or) replace the ignition
harness.

There was a safety recall on the BID system. The instruction was to
cut out the 2-wire connector and solder the blue and white leads from
the harness to the two leads from the distributor sensor. If this
has been accomplished, you should be able to read 1.6-2.4 ohms at the
module connector. If you don't get that reading, replace the sensor.
I bought one of these sensors within the past year or so, for around
$10-15. The new sensor comes with installation instructions and a
gage wire to set the clearance between the sensor and the trigger
wheel. You are supposed to pull the trigger wheel with a gear
puller, but I was able to do it without pulling the trigger wheel.

Before replacing the sensor, you might want to check the operation of
the vacuum advance unit. With the distributor cap and dust cover
off, connect a vacuum pump to the distributor vacuum port. Pump it
up; it should hold a vacuum. Also, the sensor should move relative
to the trigger wheel. If both the sensor and the vacuum unit are
bad, it is probably cost-effective to replace the distributor with a
rebuilt unit.

Two things to note when purchasing a rebuilt distributor:
1. Save the dust cover; the new distributor won't come with one, and
it is important for proper location of the distributor cap. The
clips won't hold the cap tightly enough if the dust cover is missing.

2. The new distributor might not have a felt pad at the top of the
distributor shaft (under the rotor). If not, rummage through your
Dremel accessory kit and find a #414 felt polishing wheel. (Or pick
up a pack of six from WalMart, Home Depot or your favorite hobby
shop.) It fits nicely. Put a few drops of oil on it to keep the
centrifugal advance mechanism lubricated.

--Glen Hoag
  '75 Pacer 258 (x2)
  Limestone County, Alabama '82 Spirit 151
  AMO #7895 AMCPC #471


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